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   HOW TO - Change the feathering shaft on a Belt CP

This information applies to both the Belt CP V1 and V2, but be warned, the two use different size feathering shafts and different methods for tightening them.  Both will be covered in this article.

If you have damaged a feathering shaft, remember to also check the mainshaft, as it may well also be bent.


Both types

First thing is to remove both main blades, making sure you do not loose the little Nylock nuts from under the blades when you remove the fitting bolts.

Belt CP V1

The V1 uses nylock nuts to lock the main blade holders onto the feathering shaft. These are 5.5mm so because they are buried down inside the blade grip, you need TWO box spanners that will fit inside there, which means they need to be fairly thin walled. put a box spanner on the nuts at either end, and undo by turning them anticlockwise.  They should undo relatively easily.

Belt CP V2

The V2 uses metric Cap Screws to lock the main blade holders onto the feathering shaft. Because these are buried down inside the blade grip, you really need TWO metric hex drivers rather than normal allen keys. Put one in each cap bolt at either end, and undo by turning them anticlockwise.  They should undo relatively easily, however, they may also have been thread locked in.  If they will not move, use a soldering iron to heat the cap bolt head and try again.  This will usually allow you to undo them.


Once the bolt/nuts are off, pull just one blade grip off carefully.  Make sure you don't loose the small washer that fits under the bolt/nut.  Once the blade grip is off, remove the various shims and washers, NOTING THEIR ORDER AND THE DIRECTION AS WELL as one has a small flange (V1 only I believe) that MUST be fitted the correct way around.  In that washers case, the small flange that sticks outwards MUST go against the INNER BEARING ITSELF to avoid any binding.

Lay the parts out carefully, and in the order they came of the feathering shaft.

If the rubber dampers are still in the main head casting, remove them as well and inspect them for cuts or softening.

Now pull the entire feathering shaft out, complete with blade holder or whatever is still on the other end, and disassemble and lay out as per the first side.

If the feathering shaft is too badly bent to be pulled out, you may have to resort to cutting it off close the head with a hacksaw so that it can be removed.


Basically this is a simple reversal of the above procedures, but care needs to be taken to get the thrust bearings, shims and washers in the correct position and direction, and to get the blade grips pinched on to the new shaft with the right level of tightness.  Also check the rubber 'O' ring dampers for any cuts or softness.  If there are any, always replace them as they are crucial to goof flying and accurate tracking.

Check the blade grips carefully, as they can be cracked in a crash, especially on the arm where the connecting ball fits.  If in doubt - REPLACE THEM

The thrust bearings can be difficult, so care is needed, plus you will need something like a vernier caliper that can measure the inner hole diameter, as the two outer parts of these three part bearings have DIFFERENT SIZED INNER HOLES. The one with the LARGER DIAMETER INNER HOLE MUST BE ON THE INSIDE.

Belt CP V1

Because the V1 uses the nylock nuts to lock the main blade holders onto the feathering shaft, you have to use some care and finesse to get the tension on them just right, as both ends need to be tightened up at the distance along the thread.  A trick I use is to prelock one nylock nut on to the end of the new shaft, and I then thread lock it so that it is unlikely to move when I tighten the other one, with about 4 threads of the feathering shaft showing out of the top.

Then assemble the other side, and pull that nylock nut down until it is about the same distance on to the feathering shaft. If you get this right, you will find that it should also be showing around 4 threads sticking out of the top of the nylock nut. Now continue tightening carefully until the blade grips start to bind slightly when turned on the shaft, and once that point is reached, loosen the nut until the grips are just nice and free to rotate.

Belt CP V2

Because the V2 uses the Cap headed bolts to lock the main blade holders onto the feathering shaft, rather than the nylock nuts used on the V1, it is very simple to get the tension on them just right, as both ends normally need to be tightened all the way up to the end of the shaft.  It is a good idea with these to use a very small amount of thread lock on each bolt to ensure they cannot vibrate loose..

Finally check that the blade grips to ensure they are nice and free to rotate, and that there is minimal "teeter" which means up and down movement of the blade grips.

CLICK HERE for full size diagram in new window


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